An American in Cuba: Time to Say Goodbye

It was finally time to say goodbye to Cuba.  It had been a whirlwind tour but one I was so glad that we made.

Suzanne and our guide were concerned about checkout for our group.  They said the hotel had agreed to break their usual rules and let us checkout the night before and they were even going to provide us with a breakfast.  Several of us went downstairs the night before departure and attempted to check out.  We were strongly told “no, that is not possible.”  Cuban hotels are very concerned about mini bar usage. So bright and early Thursday morning our large group had the privilege of waiting in line to check out.  Check out consisted of going to the desk and then waiting for someone with a clip board to go up and inspect our rooms to see what we had used from the mini bar.  This could be quite a time consuming process.  We paid the 4 CUC’s for our water bottle and then we were checked out.  We also needed to change our money back.  The airport now accepts American dollars so this was the place to do it.  Interestingly there is a fee for changing money in Cuba as in any currency exchange.  The difference in Cuba is that they only charge it once.  So we were spending thinking we would lose another 13% to change back to dollars but there was no fee to change back to dollars.  Unlike the Euro which can be changed anywhere in the world this currency exchange can only happen in Cuba.  We saved a small amount of money for me to add to my souvenir collection and we were ready to go.

I tried to soak in all the sights on our drive back to the airport.  It would be the last time.  Even if we come back again someday it will not be the same Cuba.  While it is true that Cuba appears frozen in time it is evident that changes are occurring.  Our travelling companion who had visited in 1991 could definitely attest to that as could Suzanne who has been leading tour groups to this destination for six years.  If we return someday will billboards sport what we expect to see on a billboard – commercials for products and service?  Or will the billboards still be just political propaganda?  Would I miss the varied transportation methods sharing the road when I got home or would I be grateful to return to crazy busy streets with better control of automobile emissions?

One thing that will not change is the beauty of the Cuban people.  They are a physically beautiful people.  My husband and I commented on this many times during our stay.  They could be a hopeless group of people but I don’t think they are.  I feel they have desire for something better but they seem to have found a way to appreciate what they do have and to have happiness with it.  I like to believe the vibrant culture of art and music may play a part in that.  So many communist countries shut down the arts but that is one area Castro did right.

As we approached the airport Suzanne did the presentation of tips to our guide and driver.  Tips were included in our package price and she assured us that she takes very good care of her guides and drivers.  Being Americans, many in our group could not leave without giving an additional tip.  A good guide can make or break a tip and our guide was very good.  He was willing to answer any question, though sometimes he asked us to wait and ask certain questions on the bus, and freely gave his knowledge and opinions on things.  He obviously loves his country but like any of us he would like to see it be even better than it is.  It is obvious why so many Cubans try to be involved in the tourist industry.  These individuals make far more money than the average Cuban.  I too would leave a medical career for tourism there.

Our guide gave us some parting words on the bus.  He thanked us for coming to visit his country. He told us, “I hope you have seen that we may not be as good as we think we are but we are not as bad as Fox News makes us out to be!”  Applause followed his statement.  Indeed Cuba has a long way to go but if her people are any indication she will make it.

When we arrived at the airport it was time to say our goodbyes and stand in line.  Check in proved to be a process again. Our passports and visas were taken and then the ticket agent returned and issued our boarding passes and seat assignments.  My husband and I were fortunate to sit together.  Now off to the next line – immigration.  I was fascinated by the people in line with me who were travelling with small dogs.  Clearly they must be American Cubans who had been visiting.  I just didn’t expect to see pets on the plane in Cuba.  It was time for me to stand in front of the immigration officer.  I wish I had realized that she would be taking my visa – I would have made a picture of it.  She told me to put my hair behind my ear for my picture.  I did and then smiled.  That was a mistake.  I was told “no smile for picture.”  Ok… now watch the smile fade away quickly.  I retrieved my passport and moved quickly through the door as soon as it was unlocked.

I now waited in line for security; my husband had not made it through his line yet.  I was only able to fit one of my canvasses in a suitcase as the other was too big.  I had asked Suzanne if this would be a problem she had said “I hope not.  We had problems with people getting through with wooden items last time but stick close to me and you should be fine.”  That sounded good to me but Suzanne was nowhere to be seen so I proceeded through security.  I was excited to breeze through the metal detector and then a security guard stopped me and said “Ma’am you need to go over there.”  He picked up my canvas and used it to point to a man at a table by the wall.  You need to take this there.

I was really wanting to get out of Cuba without incident so I complied.  Our guide has told us a story about drugs in Cuba.  He said “Are there drugs in Cuba?  Yes there are but not many because the penalty is so strong.”  He told us about his neighbor.  She was leaving the country and had agreed to pick up a large screen TV to bring back for a friend.  When she returned the TV was confiscated and searched and drugs were found inside.  She received an automatic 15 year prison sentence.  He said dealers receive an automatic 20 -25 year sentence.  Parole is rare in Cuba.  He said prisoners convicted of drug crimes never receive parole.

I approached the table with some trepidation.  The man looked at me, sighed and took my canvas.  “What is this?” he asked.  I said it is a painted canvas.  Another sigh.  “Where did you buy it?”  With a little bit of panic in my voice I answered, “The market” as I realized there are multiple markets in Havana and I have no idea where I was.  “Do you have the receipt?”  “No” I didn’t have a receipt for anything we bought!  “But there is a price on the back,” I excitedly exclaimed.  He started to partially unroll my taped canvas.  “Is it only one?” “Yes,” I answered confidently.  Another sigh.  “In Cuba …(dramatic pause)… you need to pay a tax on a canvas.” “OK,” I nodded my agreement as I answered.  “It will be 3 CUC’s.”  “Oh,” I said.  I had wanted to keep those CUC’s as a souvenir so I innocently rifled through my wallet looking for CUC’s.  “Will you take American?”  Big sigh and a rub of the hair.  A pause.  “Ok, four American.”  He looked so put out.  “Wait, I have CUC’s.  Here’s three.”  He looked relieved.  Then he told me.  “I must stamp it.”  He put a stamp on the canvas and then showed it to me. “This shows you are legal and that you have paid the tax.”  He handed me the canvas, I thanked him, and quickly made my way into the terminal.

I did some last minute shopping and waited for my husband to arrive.  I recounted my story to him and then we made a last minute duty free rum purchase for some souvenirs.  We then headed for the ham and cheese sandwich that Suzanne told us we needed to save 10 CUC’s for at the airport.  Too bad it was too early to enjoy a beer with it.  Suzanne joined us at our table and I told her the story of the canvas and the tax.  She said there seem to be new rules with every trip.

We waited for our plane to board.  When it was time everyone lined up again.  A podium stood by the door.  We had to show our passport and boarding pass.  We then stepped through the door where we once again showed our passport and boarding pass.  At the stairs to the plane we again showed our identity.  To leave the country we realized we showed our ID five times.  Fortunately we had no problems getting on the plane.

As we headed home I knew I would take a piece of Cuba home in my soul.  I’m so happy I was able to make this trip.  I have travelled many places in my life and look forward to travelling to many more.  Cuba was a special destination.  I don’t know how to describe the effects on me except to say that my travelling companion and I were right at the start of the trip.  This is a difficult destination to describe, it needs to be experienced.  Culturally it was unlike any other destination I have visited.  Would I go back again?  Absolutely.  But if I were to go back I think my story would be very different.  Cuba may be a land frozen in time but it is changing, just not as quickly and not in the same way as the rest of us.  I am so curious to see how she grows.

Thank you for reading!

Our next big trip is to the Inca Trail and Machu Picchu in a few months.  I will be detailing our training for that trip as well as the trip.